The Empty Green Petrol Can

This is the petrol can I have carried from England, always intending to fill it up at the next petrol stop, but never getting around to it. It has been a bloody nuisance, not fitting easily in my narrow boot space, and causing much mirth from my fellow travellers.

We are in Kastoria. The town is built on the flatter part of a rocky peninsula jutting into lake Orestaida, another tranquil stretch of water surrounded by hills and distant peaks. The road closely follows the lake shore into the older part of town where we must find our hotel in the Ntoltso area. Between us and the lake, are fringes of grass, being enthusiastically shorn by a flock of large white geese, and cafés with tables on the waterside. It is on the face of it very alluring; we could be in Annecy or Como. Inevitably as we rumble past in strange old cars, there is excitement and picture taking, but perhaps less here.

We find the hotel on a quiet square, opposite a school in a restored mansion. Sideris our host has taken a 50-year lease on the building, carrying out a meticulous restoration. It is all high ceilings and dark wood, but tastefully done. We have time to stroll through the town before dinner.

For many years Kastoria was the centre of the fur trade, but it is manifest that that is the past not the future – or even the present. Many of the older buildings have been restored but an equal number are dilapidated and empty. The style is familiar but from where? The buildings are impressive, semi fortified, often with three floors, the upper level being jettied on angles props. Tall windows puncture dark painted walls. We remember it from Albania, but we are actually now in Macedonia, and the sense of a Macedonian identity is present in this perhaps diminished city. There seems to be a weariness amongst the Kastorians, a rueful backwards looking sadness. The beautiful setting could, in a different economic climate or more accessible location, be a honeypot for monied tourists.

The next day we have a fine drive to look forward to, and it all starts off so well. The climb out of the city with vistas over the shimmering lake are magical, but then Adam slows with loss of power and an unhealthy knocking. Simple analysis suggests the cylinder head gasket has blown.

It will need replacing, and of course Adam has a spare, but it is a three hour job and not one for the roadside on a mountain in Macedonia. He thinks he has enough power to continue, at least to Nestoria, the most northerly point of our trip. I am sad for him that he is running on three cylinders because the road is magnificent.

This is why we came to Greece; empty mountain roads, smooth tarmac, breath-taking mountain scenery. Now it is the Republic of Macedonia that is only ten miles away.

The remainder of the day was eventful…..

11.00 Stop in filling station outside Nestoria to discuss options. There is shade and a repair shop. We ask if can mend the car on their forecourt. Permission given. Put on overalls drain radiator and start taking engine to pieces. I put the radiator plug back in to avoid losing it.

11.30 Robin and Andrea are given permission to go on to Vergina as we don’t need their help. Anita provides water and support for the workers.

12.00 Have cylinder head off, and indeed gasket has blown. Clean up head and block and put in new gasket.

13.00 Head back on but lots of bits to connect up. Carolina returns from long walk into town with fresh orange juice and sandwiches.

14.00 All back together. Put water in radiator and press starter. Instead of bursting into life it stutters and farts and will barely run.

14.30 Still scratching heads to understand why.

14.31 Realise condenser wire has become detached. Re-attach wire. Engine bursts into life.

14.45 We are on our way, heading off down large fast road.

14.50 I smell and see water and steam streaming from under Adams car. Race to catch up with him and stop him. Pull into side of road, thankfully with a reasonable hard shoulder. The radiator is now empty.

14.55 “Did you retighten the radiator drain plug?” Adam asks. Reasonable question.

14.55 “No”

14.55 “Shit. No water, no drain plug.”

14.55 “Bother.”

14.56 Road is not very busy but cars thunder past. Nobody stops. Guilt weighs heavy.

!4.50 Right need to fettle new drain plug. Problem being that all pipe fittings have odd threads. Find that the side union on spare SU fuel pump somewhere buried in my spares box fits but has a hole through middle. Fill hole with two-part epoxy paste. It fits.

14.51 We have no water.

14.52 Empty water bottles and find various half full plastic bottles along the verge. We have nearly a litre …. we need 2 gallons.

14.53 BUT… we have empty green petrol can.

14.55 Caro and I set off to find source to fill empty green petrol can. No houses or habitation visible. Huge irrigation spray sighted in field but not sure how to use that to fill empty green petrol can. Drive five miles.

15.00 Don’t notice speed ditch just before level crossing. Take it far to fast. Terrible bang. Carolyn has hissy fit and screams. Car seems to be OK. Go 200metres turn onto different road with much more traffic and no hard shoulder.

15.01 Engine dies. Stop and open bonnet. Car now on side of busiest road in Southern Europe. Car full of enthusiastic non-English speaking Greeks stop and tell us this is a very dangerous place to stop. They prattle unhelpfully while trying to take pictures of the car. They have no water. Huge trucks attack us from both directions, stopping with hissing and shaking brakes. Greeks get back in car and drive off.

15.10 Realise that the wire to petrol pump has fallen off in the jolt. Put it back on, but car is reluctant to start.

15.12 Car starts.

15.15 Drive on and find garage. Empty green petrol can now full green water can. Yippee! Find another container for a few more litres.

15.30 Drive back to Adams car, taking level crossing at tortoise speed. Hand over water can, drive three miles before we can turn around.

15.35 Equipe is back in action.

16.00 All going swimmingly well. Countryside dull with large plain with three huge power stations. We choose to catch up by using motorway.

16.30 All going well.

17.00 Adam slows and then pulls onto hard shoulder. We stop behind. “you know things come in threes? … I’ve just broken my top gear chain…”. But Nashes are always breaking chains and he can go well with a new head gasket and three gears.

18.30 Finally arrive in Elatochori somewhat frazzled. Carolina is visiting another place known only to Dante, Kafka and Hieronymous Bosch.

18.31 Beer available.

19.00 Carolina now speaking but not with me.

19.30 Walk 1Km to Tavern. charming authentic meal russled up smiling couple. freshest of salads from the garden, grilled pork and chicken, Kilo of wine. All delicious. Walk back to hotel. There is a full moon and we can glimpse the Thermaic Gulf. Perhaps, just perhaps, Carolina will consider travelling with me on the morrow, but never another trip. Ever.